Monday, February 28, 2011

Heading to Ha Long Bay...

Well the $4 extra for a first class sleeper back to Hanoi on the overnight train last night paid off. I slept pretty well...big blanket, fluffy pillow, water, flushing toilet AND soap at the sink..woo hoo! :)

I shared the 4 person cabin with 3 other Vietnamese folks. hmmm was a bit paranoid I will admit since I was on a top bunk and my big bag was stored on the bottom underneath the other beds...drug smuggling into my bag..I kept envisioning such arrests at the train station after hearing about some crazy stories from my Iraeli and Spaniard friends from my Sapa Trek....

Anyway, made it back to the hostel after bartering for a $2 taxi ride back to the hostel. The staff are so amazing here....gave me a towel to shower, water fruit, and are packing a lunch for the 3 1/2 hour bus ride to Ha Long Bay.

There is so much amazing fruit in this tropical place but the one tough thing is that you can't really buy one or two pieces of fruit. You ask for one banana and they will grab 2 bunches for you and you probably end up paying the same for both right?! haha

People I've met keep making a comment about how my traveling experiences through Asia will be different simply by the way I look. I agree and am tempted to dress up like a local and learn some of the native tongue to see what prices and such I get.

Very very interesting....

So I got one night on the junk boat and then one at a hotel with my package. Exploring Cat Cat island, kayaking, swimming and more are some activities. Its looking a bit cloudy so will see how we go with that! I've spoken to many who have gone on the trip and they have not swam in the water. I think I'm gonna jump in and do it!



Hey There!!
Just arrived back to Sapa town after my day of trekking which started right from my hotel with a group of 10 of us heading out. A group of 7 from Israel all friends, a solo German and solo Spaniard both whom I got to know well after our day together.

As soon as we exited our hotel, a group of about 6 black H'mong people all dressed in their traditional costumes were greeting us in English (which was amazingly learned just through their interactions with tourists). I thought WOW! We were headed to their village about 12 km easy trekking away. They ranged from all ages and were very friendly (for a reason which I will explain later!).

We were blessed with an incredible day-sunny and a perfect temperature. The rice paddies were just spectacular to walk amongst as you will hopefully see in some of the pics on the blog. Our guide was very informative and I learned that the back in the day, H'mong boys (at any age) could "kidnap" any girl they liked and the girl would have no choice but to be with him forever. Many would escape and then poison themselves with a plant grown near by. These days the government has outlawed such happenings. The H'mong people came from nearby China and speak different languages among their own people too.

We continued to trek and got to the main village where now the women trekking with you want you to buy buy buy all of their hand made goods. I could see how many would find this quite hassling indeed. We ate lunch at a place by the river and then headed to the next town about 2 km trek away passing a school (which I happily donated some Dong too!) The students performed a dance which was so sweet to us all. 3 of our group stayed at the next major town for a homestay while us others headed back to Sapa in a van. I will shower here soon at the hotel, have a quick bite to eat then make the 45 minute van ride back to the main train station for my overnight back to Hanoi.

I wonder how different the 1st class sleeper is! I could go for a little foot massage now but no time! darn! :)

Sunday, February 27, 2011

Sapa Style






Good Moooooooorning Vietnam!!!!!

Sorry you know I had to do that for comic relief :) There are a ton of t-shirts for sale that say that too. My photos did not upload to my last post but here they are today. The one with a river in the background is with China in the background at the border! I have so many pics from the Sapa markets with all the women dressed so colorful and beautifully so wish I could upload them but will have to wait until facebook is opened up for me.

I woke up to (as anticipated) being in complete fog in Sapa. There's definitely a beauty in it and my photos will show just how crazy it is. My giant bed was not as comfortable as I thought with the springs being right under me so I wrapped myself in the big fluffly blanket they had like a burrito and slept pretty good for the night.

Breakfast at the hotel was my first crepe with pancake and here was the French influence finally kicking in I figured:) Headed to the villages to see the enormous terraces and "Black" H'mong people today. Black is not referred to their skin color but more their dress.

Its a hiker's paradise here with so many outfitters stocking "The North Face" gear...fake of course but looks sooo good! Foot and body massages range fro $2-$5 US dollars between 20-45 minutes. I was going to do it yesterday but my body felt ok so thought I would treat myself when I really need it.

Hopefully I will get a chance to write one more time before getting on the overnight train back to Hanoi tonight.


"same same but different"



I have made it to SAPA - The destination for the Northwestern Vietnam region.
But...
I'm a day behind on my blog because I had to get to the train station last night to get to Lao Cai in Northern Vietnam, so let me catch you up on my Day 2 in Hanoi first.

I met a nice Aussie named Patrick at breakfast in the hostel and he had just arrived the day before solo backpacking Vietnam for a month too so we headed out to the Ho Chi Minh Mausaleum together to explore. Patrick had dreads in his hair and it was so funny watching the locals look at his hair when we were out and about. He is a chef by trade so was also up for eating real local and trying everything we could-street style!

Anyway, Mausaleum was situated in a big square similar to Tiananemn Square in China. We saw a long line as we got closer to the complex but were fortunate to proceed through the line with ease. There appeared to be many locals, young and old, paying tribute to the great Uncle Ho. His embalmed body itself was definitely a sight to see as people proceed through the room he is kept in with a 'U' type line and guards all around his body. I imagine it would be an hour to guard him. The area also allowed you to see the house on stilts that he slept him, the cars he drove (very nice indeed including a sweet Ford Mustang!), his gardens, and much more.

I then headed to the water puppet show that I had a ticket for at 2:15pm. It was about a 45 minute show, packed house and there were no tickets left for every show the rest of the day. There is a show every hour from 2:15pm to 9:15pm to give you an idea. The show was so creative and I still wonder how the puppeteers have the puppets appear on top of water. Perhaps a snorkel? That's a big skill to have!

I will be honest and tell you that I have gotten lost in Hanoi city more than once. It seems that every street and shop looks the "same same but different" (a fun and popular phrase they use here and I want to bring back to the USA). So after the puppet show I seemed to overshoot my hotel once again but eventually found it. Before the puppet show, I literally was sprinting to the show as I got lost going to the show too..hahaha :)

I ended up getting back to the hotel around 6pm to shower up and meet up again with Patrick to go to dinner at a local joint around the corner to get Pho (noodle soup). Patrick went there 3 times yesterday so I assumed it was good...and it was!-Costing $1.50 for a big bowl. Yes I know...much more than my 35 cent meal but I'll still take it.

I headed to the train station for my overnight train to the Northwest. Waiting at the train station, I sat next to a young Chinese guy who was headed the same way. He was so sweet and wanted to practice English with me. He said his English name was ...wait for it....PEDRO!!!
Now what kind of an English teacher gave him that kind of an English name for real!
--------
I had a 2nd class sleeper (which locals took I was informed) and it was 2 x 2 bunk beds in a cabin. Fortunately, I shared the cabin with 3 fun backpacking young Germans and we had a fun night playing some dice game they showed me. Ben, reminded me so much of my friend Ben Wolfe, so much. Same height, humor and all. Ben was showing me all of his survival kits including his favorite, a pocket chain saw that came in a round container the size of shoe polish!(I took a photo) Hilarious!!! Ben said he was running around his hometown of Frankfurt trying to search for a miniature fishing kit without success..hahaha Anyway, I could see Wolfe and Ben running outside and testing that bad boy of a chainsaw if Wolfe were traveling with me, which I so wish was the case.

The train ride was OK...although I felt drugged when I woke up from drowsiness but did get some hours of sleep. I was so happy I had the 3 Germans in my cabin. The only thing was probably the toilet on the train, well let's just say that there was no flush system what so ever....I have a 1st class sleeper on the way back so it will be interesting how different it is.

We arrived to Lao Cai at around 8:30am and I headed on a van to Bac Ha markets about 90 minutes away. It is the major market for the mountain villages and I specifically wanted to arrive on Sunday to experience these village people (many H'mong folks) trade. The costumes that the women wore were so colorful and immaculate distinguishing the different tribes. Many tourists were buying the pattern in bags, hats, table cloths and more. The market was for produce, meat, water buffalo, field tools, dogs, chickens, shoes, you name it!

We had lunch there and then headed to walk and visit some of the H'mong villagers in the homes. The weather turned just beautiful with the sun coming out which made the elevation temperatures perfect. After the visit, we headed back to Lao Cai, but not without a stop to the border between Vietnam and China! Yup, I was on the border of China today....I couldn't believe it. There was just a river between. We dropped off folks in our van at the train station headed back to Hanoi tonight while only 3 of us headed to Sapa about 45 minutes further up in the mountains away.

With the sun shining down, the drive was absolutely spectacular and reminded me a lot of the Sacred Valley tour in Peru. Terrace after terrace, rice paddies, waterfalls...I can't wait for our trek tomorrow! My hotel that was booked for me through the tour is old but very big and my room has the biggest bed I have ever slept on with a lanai and TV and fridge filled with drinks. I was so impressed! We got in around 5pm so I headed out to walk the small town and the main square. The mist had already kicked in so views of the terraces were not there but hopefully tomorrow will be a different story especially in the morning when we head out.

Enjoy the pics!

Friday, February 25, 2011

Day 2 Here I come!

After my giant 35 cent meal for lunch, I was very happy getting a chocolate milk, some bread and eating my complimentary Asian pear in my room for dinner last night.
Oh and also hibernating in my room rubbing my sore feet from walking all day, enjoying a good shower with my shampoo and conditioner and putting some new clothes on since my bag arrived!!! Yay.

TV in the room featured aaaaaaa AMERICAN IDOL (and the recent episode too)..It almost felt like I was home:) That was followed by falling asleep to "Funny People" on good old HBO...Before that was some serious ESPN watching (but it was with British commentators?).

Anyway, its 6:15am and I think I finally got a full decent night's sleep. Last night I really was looking into my next plans after Hanoi. Tonight I have booked myself a 3 night/2 day trip to SAPA into the mountain villages of Northern Vietnam to visit the H'mong people and some trekking--I'll be ready to get out of the city. It's an overnight train ride both ways but I know will be such an incredible experience many miss out on. I get back Monday morning at 5am and am getting on a bus to the famous Halong Bay after that for a 2 night/3 day adventure.

Its after Halong Bay that I am tossing a lot on...my first thoughts were always to make my way south to the central coastal cities of Hue and Hoi An. Lots of history there with the war and meant to be a beautiful train ride...but my 12 week trip doesn't seem that long anymore when I try and map out where I want to go after that....but I think I am going to do it though. I really want to see the differences in the major geographical parts of Vietnam. I'm planning on then just flying from Hoi An (Da nang) to Ho Chi Minh City after that to stay with the Doty family.

So today on the agenda, headed to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum to visit the corpse of Northern Vietnam's great leader Ho Chi Minh. Somebody said I gotta get there early.....Then walking, museums and getting to the famous water puppet show that is at 2:15pm which I bought a ticket to yesterday. I think I'll be pretty wiped and head back to the hostel after that. The hostel is great and let you shower and hang out even if you are not staying there for the night. I am meant to get picked up at 8pmish for the Sapa trip.

Time to get going...

Look what I found at the Seoul airport




I totally forgot to write in my blog that I found this ring left in the bathroom at the airport in Seoul..Wow...it may be fake? I don't know but that's a lot of shining rock from what I see. I turned it straight in to the information desk at the airport so I hope the owner has been found.
What if right....! NEVERRRRRRRR!

*(The 2nd photo is me killing time at the Seoul airport learning about their culture and dressed in a traditional royal princess gown)

Yay...My bag is here!

Phew! I didn't think I could take another 12 hours in the same clothes...

Facebook Blocked in Vietnam!




I Forgot to tell you that I found out that Vietnam has Facebook blocked :(
So unfortunately I won't be able to update my status and upload photos ...but I will try to put up as many as I can on this blog (like the one here of my 35 cent lunch today!!! so Awesome!!)
Maybe Cambodia will have it opened up??...!!


Thursday, February 24, 2011

First Day of Hanoi





Alright, I'll be honest, I took a sleeping pill last night because I wanted a little "help" to get some much needed shut eye!
Still, it only meant 5 hours of sleep and waking up at 6:30am Vietnam time (1 day and 7 hours behind from Hawaii). Anywho, I went down to my complimentary breakfast at 7:30am with my Lonely Planet guide packed and walking shoes on. I met a French guy at breakfast also traveling solo who was headed on a Halong Bay tour that I am planning to also do next week. He gave me some great tips and I headed out to the Women's museum first that came highly recommended from him which documented and detailed the history, struggle, family life and more of Vietnamese women. 4 floors very well done.

As soon as I stepped out of the hostel, immediately a smirk appeared on my face as I started walking, listening, watching and embracing such a cultural adventure. One of my big thoughts was how it was going to be traveling as an "Asian" in an Asian country. I was still getting minor haggles to buy stuff and such but I really don't know if my appearance is making such haggling happen less....?

So, the exchange rate is about $1 US = 20,000 Vietnam Dong. I thought S.America was cheap...but boy this is just ridiculously sickening. Museums were on average 10,000 Dong which is 50 cents entry. I walked around the central Hoan Kiem lake of Hanoi and actually got to see the famous tortoise pop out of the water in the lake---I found out that this was kind of a big deal with legends going back in the Dynasty days with the tortoise. Camera crews were there and people lined up at the lake so I felt kind of lucky to see it.

I bought a ticket to the famous Water Puppet Show for tomorrow since tix were booked out today. Then found a local lunch place where a ton of people were seated. Why not I thought....I had NO idea what I was ordering because you sit down on a little stool and then they just give you food..so I had 5 small plates of food with a rice, chicken, egg, vegetable, and stuffed tomato dish..awesome! huge...and 35 cents...yup 35 CENTS...unbelievable!!!!

Walked some more and over to the nation's first historic university....my feet were sooooo sore by now but slowly made it back to the hostel and am now relaxing in my room, tired but content, waiting for my bag to hopefully arrive!

Tomorrow=the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum to see the corpse of the Great Northern Vietnam leader, Ho Chi Minh, puppet show and planning to head up to Sapa for some village trekking and culture leaving on a train at 8:30pm.

Fingers crossed for the bags xx :)

My Australaysian Adventure Begins...




YES to finally making it to Vietnam!!!!!
That's of course after:
-losing my luggage on the inter-island flight from Kona to Honolulu
-a comfortable but long 11 hour flight from Honolulu to Seoul on Korean Air with awesome personal entertainment technology
-3 hour layover at Seoul's clean, efficient, big, free wifi and culturally experiencing airport
-4 1/2 more hours on a Korean Air flight to Hanoi, Vietnam where I could stretch out and try to sleep a bit on the spare seat next to me

The decision to book a private room on my first 2 nights in Hanoi was well worth it as I lie clean and showered in one of my two full beds in the room with fresh fruit on my bedside, a bottle of water, and wifi access - all for $20 a night!

I am so excited to experience this historically driven country and all it has to offer with its food, people, diversifying landscape and cultures.

O and my bag should arrive tomorrow afternoon....I hope!

Time to learn some Vietnamese but for now its Good night :)